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The hemp stalk is first of all defoiled. The stalks are cut by mainly mechanical means. The hemp stalks are then retted. Retting is a microbial process that loosens the stiff bast fibres. This process is necessary for producing long, fine quality fibres used for textile yarn. Retting can be done by leaving the crop on the field to rot, or immersing it in water. Water retting is more capital and labour-intensive but produces better results. However, since it had a negative impact on water plants and fish, the practice was banned in many parts of Europe. In China and Eastern Europe, where labour costs are lower, water retting is the most common method employed. After retting, the stalks are dried. (The landscape in many parts of rural France is still dotted with hemp ovens built for this purpose). After drying, the stalks are scrutched and decorticated. The latter are processes which break the woody core of the stems and separate the bast fibre from the hurds. The production of hemp textiles today is very similar to traditional production methods. The only difference is related to the treatment of the raw fibre. In order to produce finer yarns and blend hemp with other fibres, the stalks are boiled in caustic soda and spun wet instead of dry. Hemp textiles are often lightly bleached with hydrogen peroxide in preparation for dying or simply to make the fabric more presentable. These latter production processes exclude our hemp from being certified as organic. However, it is thanks to these innovations that hemp can be blended with other fibres and produce softer and finer fabrics than was previously possible. Please note that hemp needs to be washed at least 4 times before it attains maximum absorption. In other words, don’t judge a hemp nappy on its first use! You’ll find that it gradually becomes more absorbent after a few washes. Caring for your hemp 1. Pre-washing and shrinking Our hemp fabrics are sold ‘greige’; that is, straight off the loom. Unless specified, they have not been dyed, bleached or treated with any special finishes or rinses. The few fabrics which are bleached, such as the fleece, have undergone only a very light oxygen bleach. It is therefore necessary to pre-shrink your fabrics before confection. This can be achieved simply by pre-washing the fabric on hot and subsequently tumble drying it on hot. The final amount of shrinkage is dependent on several factors, such as the amount of fabric washed and dried at once. Smaller pieces tend to shrink more. Commercial dryers reach higher temperatures and will thus cause the fabric to shrink more. The shrinkage indicated for each fabric type is therefore only indicative. If you use these fabrics for products that will be washed and or dried at high temperatures regularly (such as nappies or sanitary products), we recommend repeating the procedure of pre-washing and drying to avoid shrinking of the final product. Please note that hemp needs to be washed at least 4 times before it attains maximum absorption. In other words, don’t judge a hemp nappy on its first use! You’ll find that it gradually becomes more absorbent after a few washes. For larger orders, it is possible to have your fabrics pre-washed and pre-shrunk. Please enquire about the possibilities and charges. 2. Laundering, drying and ironing Hemp loves being washed. It will withstand high washing and drying temperatures. Hemp is a very sturdy and absorbent fibre. However, this can also cause your fabric to become hard in hard water areas as is the case with other absorbent fabrics such as terry toweling. After extended use, however, this problem will diminish as the hemp fibres gradually soften. In order to solve the problem of hard water, you may want to consider adding a de-scaling agent to your washing powder. We do not recommend using fabric softeners as they lay a film around the fibres, reducing their superior absorption and breathing qualities. Moreover, fabric softeners are known to cause allergic reactions, particularly with younger children. Even though we do not recommend making extensive use of clothes dryers for environmental reasons, just 10 min. in the tumble dryer before drying on the line will solve the problem of hard fabrics. Alternatively rubbing sections of the hard fabric against each other after taking it off the line is an inexpensive but very effective trick. Hemp can easily be ironed on hot if needed. Remember that, with reasonable care, hemp fabrics will outlast any other natural fibre. They are an economical alternative to cotton because of their superior life span. It is often said that hemp does not wear out, it wears in. | Fabric Facts | Sewing Accessories | Hemp Facts | | Return Home | GIFT IDEAS | Duvet Day | Shaped Nappies | Flat Nappies | Nappy Accessories | Little Helpers | Buy Fabrics | SALE STOCK | Contact Us | |
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